Bracey:
Being a wet day this morning I have found myself experimenting in the backyard pool again with some adjustments to lures.
Has anyone had any success opening an eye of a heavy gauge TT Jighead as I'm wanting to eliminate two split rings from the equation. I'm using a 6/0 X/H hook? As most of you know, the less terminal tackle from the leader to the hook for Barra, the better.
The other question I had as I'm using 2mm gauge flat alum. as a template at this stage, cutting Chatter Bait bibs for Barra Jigs. I have cut and drilled about a dozen bibs to get the design right, now it's time for me to either use the aluminium or go with a harder material, maybe Stainless Steel as there will be a bit of wear from the Decoy Egg Clip and the split rings at this stage. Stainless plate or Aluminium?
Thanks Dave
Bracey:
Here's the photo's of my proto type "Shaggy Shad's". The lure has done about 200 laps of the pool today with a pair of snips on hand to make adjustments.
It took about 12 bibs to get the end result having drilled copious amounts of holes in each one to also get the right tow point adjustments for maximum vibration, no spinning of the lure on the drop and best results for a slow widing retrieve.
The lure is made from a TT 6/0 X/H Jighead with Marbou feathers attached, an aluminium bib at this stage with two split rings attaching the bib to the jighead. The clip used for the tow point is a Decoy #5 Egg clip.
When retrieved it gives off great vibration and looks pretty sleek through the water as the feathers taper.
Please, if you have any thoughts on any adjustments to make this lure better for the purpose to which I'm hoping to use them for in regards to the eye opening of the jighead to eliminate the split rings or the material of the bib, let me know. Main target species I'm hoping to target with these lures are Barra and Murray Cod.
Thanks Dave
Binder:
Have these things I got years ago that would do a similar job that actually threaded down the line and were shaped like a suction cap. They did what I think your trying to do. I'll have a root around in the shed and see if I have any left (didn't catch zip on them though!). They were chip as chips and a real easy way to put a lot of action in to a lure.
Dont think you will get away from the twin rings, opening the eye (and closing it again) far enough to thread your bib on would probably weaken the metal. but the two tried and tested methods are to use an awl and gently tap it through the ring stretching it open, (be difficult on a jig head) or a pair of side cutters in the joint.
4weightfanatic:
Interesting little project there - where are you going to chase the barra (if it's not a secret spot) ? #####Hey Binder is this the suction cup type things you refer to ? From memory they are called Scroungers and sit between the jig head and the soft plastic to create some turbulence behind for maximum movement with little line uptake. This one I found on a SP I think was being used for flatties. Pat.
Bracey:
Thanks fella's,
Andrew I did try to open the eye with those methods but as you mentioned, not far enough to get that bib inside it without really weakening it.