Shoot through hull problem

[Member]

Hi all.

I took my Garmin 178C out of my boat and stuck it in my kayak. On the boat it was transom mount Trans...worked well. In the yak i glued trans to inside of plastic hull in a nice flat position at about the middle of the yak. Made a barrier of foam. Later filled the pool with sellys All clear silicon and carefully pushed it down to the bottom. Sanded hull and trans first. Heated silicon first to avoid big bubbles but there will be tiny ones. Now in the water i see a line at the top of the screen...is this to be expected with shoot through hull applications?

So first 20% of the screen is white line.  It's certainly picking up fish and structure below that however. No amount of changing gain or range gets rid of the top line.

Cheers


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[Member]

What is your kayak made out of?

[Member]

Plastic mate.  Nice clear spot away from scuppers and not on a chine.  No air under boat at that point. 

Cheers


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[Member]

Some plastic Yaks have a double skin, foam filled, that will cause problems.

[Member]

I'm shooting though the bottom of my polycraft boat at least ten mill thick and getting a satisfactory result after moving it a few to different positions,I'd try a regluing it should be better than you getting now.
Charles

[Member]

I've fitted dozens of Humminbirds into kayaks with no issues, never fitted a Garmin so I can't offer any assistance.

[Member]

You shouldn't have sanded the hull as that could affect it and also the smallest air bubble can make the signal screwed up  the way to avoid bubbles is to kee theglue nozzle small aand leave the tip in the glue as you pour it   and yea alsondepends on the kind of hull if solid plastic or foam layered

[Member]

Hi all, thanks for the replies. No foam. Plenty of bubbles I suspect despite heating the goo well beforehand, sanding shouldn't effect....? very fine sandpaper...

I might remove and use a thin amount of Sikaflex this time...going to be a pain to remove if it ever has to come out again. I will make sure I bottom the transducer out fully too.

Cheers


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[Member]

Fine sandpaper is alright keep with the sellys all clear I used 3 in 1  just no bubbles

[Member]

So mate 3 in 1 is like Sikaflex?

Cheers


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[Member]

i only used sellys 3 in 1 cause i also glued the sounder base down instead of screws   the all clear should be perfect as everyone uses it and its fine. just avoid air bubbles and try get the face of the transducer right down onto the hull

[Member]

seeing as you have a mould for the transducer fill it half way with silicone then push the transducer to the bottom then top up the hole a little

[Member]

I've used all clear in the past but reckon they've changed the formula, takes forever to go off, don't like it as much now. Just make sure you use a neutral cure sealant. An acid cure can react with the transducer. Acid cure sealants smell like vinegar.....

AquaSeal, Fixtech & Sikaflex are good brands. Sorry, only registered users can see this content. Please Login or Register.

[Member]

Took it all off mould also...its was all glued together.  Took about 45 mins with screw drivers and a small crow bar I kid you not.  It was never going to drop off by itself!  it had bubbled...hundreds and also was not properly bedded in one corner, so I must have not pushed it down evenly and the pool surround obscured the fact.  So this time pumped Sikaflex, and a LOT less, onto the face of the trans, all over the face, and just pressed it down evenly straight onto the hull floor without a surround. Rock on top. Now a few days in the sun hatches open and I should be in business. I do like Sika.

Cheers


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[Member]

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